Winter wonderland creates an image of a beautiful reality which one watches from the inside. But with the talented Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Mens (PFWM), the feeling transformed into one which merged menswear, history and, lo and behold, nap time!
The designer claimed to take inspiration from where it started: a grey suit, which showcased in the attire in various ways, including an imprint on sleeping bags that littered the impeccable scenography. It was an overall après-ski collection filled with sportswear that reminded me of a certain Moncler Gamme Bleu collection from an earlier season (a factoid that made sense when I found out that Browne used to be their creative head). The outerwear was voluminous, down filled like sportswear, including the pants! There were a handful of suits in tartan and plaid, all in patriotic French hues of red and blue, with winter sweaters and layered coats. The predominant color, nonetheless, was that of the classic grey suit. A particular shawl that reminded me of Cruella de Vil was a particularly fun piece, showcasing a sense of gender neutrality for mainstream too. Many suits were down and classically voluminous, with furry cuffs or exposed knees or weighty ankles in puffer fabric. The clincher was the dicky bow on many braided hairpieces or suit ends, once again in classic French flag colors.
Speaking of which, the models sported a particularly feminine look, one of braided hair and rosy cheeks, with a couple of them sporting long johns and slipping into the sleeping bags, caressed into bed by others in white ankle length maxi skirts! Hats off to Browne for not making this sexually suggestive but more lucid and Peter-Pan-esque in giving the boys eye masks to let them drift into dreamland under the grey suit that they would grow up adorning forever.
Supplementary images by WWD.