There is something alluring about the number seven. As Shakespeare said, a man in his time plays many parts, his acts being seven ages.
Capsule Show showcased seven designers at their New York Fashion Week Mens (NYFWM) presentation, each with a distinct style. Little did I know prior to the show, that the brainchild of BPMW showcases the vision in three cities, up to ten times a year at prominent events. A common theme of performance wear ran through all the designs, making this a mainstay trend of the week.
Camo was my favorite, owing to their focus on sunglasses with their outfits. I am a self proclaimed and well touted sunglasses addict, having covered it at fashion week before as well as via RetroSuperFuture for their Andy Warhol collection. Brainchild of Stefano Ughetti, it had over-sized silhouettes with Italian finishing. In navys, blues and off whites with chambrays, knits and light fabrics, my favorites included knit hood cardigans with house-coat style strings and wide merino stretch shorts.
Apparently an artist, Matthew Miller chose more nudes and beiges for his collection, working with trending sways or crumpled linen for artistic looks with technical details. Creased and distressed shirts were an alluring staple, alongside single breasted jackets and overcoats. My favorites were in the beige hues, perfect for work and play all at once.
CMMN SWDN described itself as a luxury streetwear brand by Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund. I found out after snapping pictures that the collection was called Genuine Fake, something I should have deduced from the graffiti pinstripe and hand cut sleeves look, or the distorted proportions on a grey cashmere wool coat with cropped white trousers, or the cropped black boxy fit snap jacket with wide leg white trousers. Both were my favorite looks owing to their juxtaposition.
Baartmans and Siegel
Probably the most whimsical of models with the most envious of long, mane-like hair were with Baartmans and Siegel. Yes, I have hair envy. And a penchant for having fun, as these boys apparently liked too. Despite its Dutch name, the brand was of UK origin with designers Wouter and Amber, and featured a very wearable and sporty set of work shirts, suit jackets, army jackets, car coats, sports bombers and athletic shorts. Two trends prevailed in the collection called Remember Remember: that of oversized square pockets, both for functionality and appeal, as well as the accent of what I called digital camo print, grey and white, which was present as an all round jacket as well as accents in other outerwear.
Casualwear line Maiden Noir had barely anything noir in its collection, but with my penchant for all things gold, I fell for the enzyme wash metallic bronze jacket, a staple for my wardrobe. The light suede bomber was also simple and easily adaptable to any outfit. I quite liked the accents on all the styles, especially the trending metallic ones, be it the metallic sandals, the boxy sunglasses, brim hats, elastic chino drawstrings, or trail runner shoes with reflective patches. Some of the materials were sourced from Japan, explaining the elemental bling.
On first looks, Blackfist came across as a punk rock, fashion, music and art fusion. I wasn’t far from wrong, for it was out of Los Angeles, likely inspired by downtown with delicious streetwear. Inspired by the 80s skate scene by Bradly Solieau, the collection was called Hurts So Good. The focus point of all the looks were the neon graffiti and paint spill shoes, almost as an accent to the safari hued apparel: green trench coats, khaki blazer, nighttime Hawaiian shirt and a brownish grey suit.
Another homage to Los Angeles‘ surf, punk and gender-fluid style was by A. Franco, Joshua Willis and Jacob Willis for Second/Layer, reminding me of how denim was once my second skin. With suede and striped blousons, fixated back caps, a yellow-green and black pinstripe shorts suit that I fell in love with, distressed leather belts and ribbed white tees and wife-beaters, the line spoke of attitude.
And so, seven seasons and seven inspirations later, I bid adieu to this Capsule Show, with the guarantee to see more outside of NYFWM too.