Art is a canvas of colors, so what does this have to do with a classic grey suit? The talented Thom Browne at Paris Fashion Week Mens (PFWM), utilized his legacy of the grey flannel documented before, and married it with models dressed as painters (and paintings) inspired by Elisabeth Louise Vigee Le Brun, who was famous for painting Marie Antoinette. As always, his set was littered the impeccable scenography There were hoards of suited damsels with dog heads (Year of the Dog, as well as royal pooch, and his own dog Hector) and artists painting in the center of the space.
The models were draped in variations of the classic grey flannel, with cropped pants and jackets or dresses in the hues of grey, beyond 50 shades at the very least. All of them sported gold hair, often matched with khaki outerwear on some. The shape of the garments was unnaturally curved to mimic the frame of what 21st century women likely wore, escalating the flannel and tulle fabric to a couture level. The overall impact was one of fantasy, seen before at his very own show. The sculpted gowns had wider hips and breasts, and jackets were sculpted to elongate shoulders. Cropped capri-like pants in flannel, pinstripe and prints were often matched with cropped blazers and waistcoats, making way for an asymmetric collection of whimsical gowns. With provocative slits, some sheer or lace ones even sported lingerie motifs and dots to cover nipples. The natural formations of marble and stone were fantastically replicated onto gowns in three dimensional shapes, brought to life by elaborate embroidery and juxtapositions of fabrics. There was a dash of fur and fuzzy lining, even a fur embossed leopard print trench, as well as a collection of animal handbags and clutches, one with an opulently decked grey rose jacket (who said you needed pink for florals?), mixed in with vests, shirt dresses, and more. One look was evidently ‘my working boyfriend’ look, what with all of its pieces made from tailored menswear!
Truly a collection that was both artful and haute couture all in one, and required much attention and depth to fully embrace. My imagination has yet to recover from its creative jolt, and I am thrilled to have witnessed a fantasy world, once again.
Supplementary images by WWD.