Sartorial with a Twist: Alexander McQueen and Paul Smith at PFWM

Learn the rules like a pro, so you can break them like an artist.

Two designers that respectively paid homage to the worlds of sartorialism, but gave it their respective twists, truly featured as some of my favorites at Paris Fashion Week Mens (PFWM).

Alexander McQueen

Red is my favorite hue, and with the apt scenography dripping in red colors, I was in for a treat. Inspired by the many faces of British men, designer Sarah Burton of Alexander McQueen created a sartorial suited collection brimming with plaids and tartans, infusing it with enough whimsy to distinguish the brand. My favorite hands down was the zebra print furry coat atop a red suit, which was truly a marriage of the camel coat and fur lined shearlings that McQueen was known for, with the familiarity of British culture which we were familiar with. There were a plethora of checked suits and pinstriped suits, sometimes adorned with chunky knits, mohair sweaters, often interlaced with leather and zippers in oversized formats. There was an element of deconstruction, with some slim suits giving way to oversized shoulders and cropped waists. The transition to rosy florals all over and lace and cutout shirts were immediately acceptable, collectively making these men a series of prints and fabrics that could be found in any British home decor. The show ended with flowing scarves (a weakness!) and beautifully sequined and beaded black coats and jackets for evening wear, even more whimsical when paired with white sneakers! Truly a fine way to break the norm of sartorial suits and adding a much needed feeling of whimsy.

Paul Smith

Paul Smith is known for the sartorial, classic obsession with suits, and the trend continued this season, infused with a few 60s colors and a few pop influences. As expected, these were precision crafted and tailored suits and trench coats, in radiant rainbow hues akin to the last season. The favorites started with blueberry blues and chirpy skyblues and indigos transitioning to purples and eggplants and lilacs of all colors. A few sweaters of psychedelic pop style prints were a welcome change, as well as some juxtapositions of asymmetry in classic tartan with monochrome, or loose fit leather trousers in identical hues to fitted coats and blazers. The result was a smart way to add whimsy to a formal outfit, and one that would inevitably be flocked to by retail. This was all followed by my favorite color red in various silhouettes. Leather coats and jackets were contrasted with tailored black looks, ending the sequence back in a structured style that the brand epitomized.

8 responses to “Sartorial with a Twist: Alexander McQueen and Paul Smith at PFWM

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