There is something to be said about scenography. Whether it is at a show, or simply the rendition of ambiance equivalent to the hotel or restaurant culture, it can elevate a season’s showcase into an altogether new level. Which, in a literal and an inspirational sense, is what was done by two global brands at Milan Mens Fashion Week (MFW / MMFW).
Moncler Gamme Bleu took season-less clothing to a new level, and scored highly on scenography too. Juxtaposing hemispheres, one side of the runway was covered in snow and pine trees, while the other side was laced with sand and beach chairs. And as the show progressed, winter clad men strutted down the runway, only to be later undressed to reveal lighter, summer clothes, and even trunks and swimwear. Truly a new way to showcase the global element of the brand.
There was a mix of sartorialism in three to four key color schemes: white, grey and silver, black, as well as a signature red and white plaid. There were puffed jackets and trousers, padding in unexpected layers, as well as tailored jackets and suits with fitted pants and shorts. The looks were mostly monochromatic, even when printed, with the plaid peacoats and outerwear with zipper vests and matching blankets being the most enviable of the collection. This particular style of using plaid and gingham, often in contrasting wide tone and houndtooth, but unanimous in color scheme, was quite appealing, and could work across seasons easily for the global brand.
With a transition from monochrome white and grey pieces to full on color bombs, MSGM‘s Massimo Giorgetti described his collection as a mesh of the West Coast, which in itself was a scene of its own. Parkas and sweaters from the chilly north, casuals and distressed oversized styles from Venice and a mix of Burning Man. The white on white looked stellar, often with motifs of the logo, as did black on black with accented letters. There were other modern trends like tech and light fabrics for outerwear or the classic camo or stripes making a comeback. I most like the floral prints, either in scarce Hawaiian hibiscus varieties on khaki blazers, or on full on scarves, jackets, trousers and tees, all juxtaposed together. There were also Mexican style blankets and madras check cardigans, paired over shorts or floral kimono style outfits, making this an over fun, youthful and celebratory collection.
With a reinstated belief in scenography and production values of the Italian way, I looked forward to the next seasons of these ethereal shows.
Images courtesy of WWD and respective PR teams.