One of the key themes for the first ever New York Fashion Week Mens (#NYFWM) was a take on formalwear. Amongst many pieces that will talk about the trends seen to bring swagger and style to the corporate world, it starts at the skies. Literally, with locations of Dream Hotel‘s epic PhD Rooftop Lounge: home to Todd Snyder‘s afterparty toast and to Sergio Davila‘s runway show.
The rise of formalwear being more comfortable is a relentless struggle for men. While possibly not a comparison for women strutting in heels and massaging their feet, us guys too hope to add that flair to our blazer or jacket and trouser lives, and impact those thousands of men who look to the world of haute for inspiration.
Todd Snyder is a namesake for classic and contemporary styles all in one, taking inspiration from Savile Row craftsmanship and military tailoring. I read that he designed for Polo Ralph Lauren, Gap, J Crew and introduced formalwear at the latter two in particular, collaborating with mens accessory brands like Timex. His sensibility showed in his dapper collection of delicious menswear for work and after work play.
Memorable pieces of his collection for SS16 were his focus on accessories. Clearly suits with sandals were a mainstay, as were a focus on refined looking leather and shiny black bags with detailing and silhouettes that spoke of more refinement than contemporary menswear. Of his suits, the all white, all grey and all navy classics were given facelifts with their Italian finish and linen fabric or tropical wool feel. The blazers were multiple buttoned and loose fitted, another prevalent trend of the season. Ditto for outerwear with trenches and pea coats with either oversized square pockets or minimal inserts, both contemporary and refined looks (especially whimsical when paired with shorts!). Finishing off many darker navy hues or lighter sea-hued shorts and pinstripe shirt combinations was a mischievous bandana scarf on many of the models, bringing a new meaning to work life balance. Truly a wearable collection for those with day jobs that require impressing!
Sergio Davila has a hat full of feathers for awards for New York’s menswear designers of 2009 and 2010. His work focuses marrying the Americas: North, Central and South, owing to his heritage and background. Always emphasizing a quality in textiles, his is a style that is easily dapper and understated, emphasizing Peruvian knitwear and textiles.
Consistent themes in his collection included the continuation of lose fitted, square cut blazers in light hues: off whites, palest pinks and oranges, babiest of blues, paired with simplest of trousers and leather strapped bags in darker safari and navy hues. I liked the pop of color, much like my own style with blood red trousers or hot pink shorts, indicating that a dash of color can do wonders for a man’s wardrobe. Much like a simple floral insert into the breast pocket. The outerwear included calf length pea coats and oversized jackets sans pockets, with silver snap buttons, a simple and clean style combination. And lastly, the textile tees with glaring floret hues, while not as ethereal as recently reviewed Ricardo Seco, made for a simple, understated and effective layering piece.