The theme of an uncertain future continues to literally inspire clouds and dark hues in the collections of New York Fashion Week Mens (NYFWM). Zachary Prell, who’s presentations I had attended in both fall and spring, similarly explored the uncertain times ahead with dark blues, indigos and cloudy colors and utilitarian designs which blended athleticism with soft tailoring.
The theme was the challenging social and economic climate, and Prell opted to accompany his man in navigating the highs and lows, aiming to instill confidence and driving him forward. The blend of dressing men for the literal fall season and the political climate was in direct juxtaposition.
With the exception of a neon light behind a series of models moulded in blue with peaks of maroon and wine red, the collection was dominated by cloudy shades of blue. These men were the only ones to have red turtlenecks with blue plaid suits or chocolate loose fitting trousers and bright red shoes.
The blue looks were mostly in indigo variations, with monochromatic blacks with cashmere knit sweaters, cable-knit cardigans, plaid shirts and sweatpants for he most part, alongside the return of a 90s trend in the name of cargo pants. Outerwear included a dark wool plaid coat, a dual zip sweatshirt and a quilted jacket.
The gray pieces continued with the theme but lent a lighter, almost silver lining to the collection, which seemed more optimistic. An all gray zip up fleece and a shiny waterproof jacket were stellar, paired with dark indigo plaid trousers and a white belt. Other blazers and peacoats were paired with turtlenecks or cowl-neck knits for a casual, laid back style that I had seen with the brand before.
With a mix of athleisure and tailoring, the collection had enough variety for the modern man who preferred well cut, monotoned hues in a wardrobe that offered fabric variety more than a tonal one. And evidently made a clear statement about the uncertainty of the future.