“Blurred Vision” is an intriguing title for a collection. According to Loris Diran, the French-American Designer, it was the blurred lines and brokn pattersn that reflected a sense of vague memories and distant dreams. Back to New York Fashion Week Mens (NYFWM) this season, his FW16 collection again explored neo-athleticism and athleisure, common themes in the shows.
Having attended his spring shows, I had front row seating with a fellow influencer and Diran’s friend, Etcetera Modus. Front rows are always charming really, for people watching in particular, although sometimes a trifle awkward for photography.
The obvious theme was military inspired, with unlikely textiles like wool with knits, neoprene with cotton, and nylon with tweed. Being a fan of fashion juxtaposition, it was totally up my alley, combined with military buttons and cuts.
I enjoyed the red themes throughout, being a favorite color and commonly scene in Milan Fashion Week too. From red shoe accents to entire red ‘blurred checks’, it was a pleasure to see the color saturating the menswear arena.
The other sartorial element that made the collection unique was Diran’s focus on gigantic pockets and asymmetry, both in front and behind the jackets, blazers and outerwear. Consistent with military pocketing and buttons, the focus on the back was refreshing. While harder to capture on the raceway runway, it was a deft form of detailing that worked very well.
The last shade palette was one of greys and darker blacks, more wearable in mainstream than the reds that I preferred personally. Nonetheless they were amplified with the same detailing and care, maintaining slim and defined silhouettes and continuing to juxtapose sartorialism with sports.