Which is why when I found out that Loris Diran‘s new line, titled Back to Black, explored his personal journey of living and working in India and Mainland China, I was simultaneously tranquil and thrilled. Having attended his New York Fashion Week Mens (NYFWM) shows since the onset, from a blue and loose cut spring to a plaid drenched fall to my favorite pastel hued spring again, this was a sequential feather in a distinguished cap.
The inspiration was evident, with longer shirts, rounded shirt bottoms like kurtas and kaftans, the Oriental collars, the Nehru style jackets and the loosely cut palazzo pants. His explanation for choosing international inspirations was also based on the current economic climate, much like other designers who used fashion platforms to express their opinions. While China has Confucius and India and Gandhi, he felt we need to look at wisdom.
There were many rustic tweeds and woolen Meltons, with cashmeres and linen mixes adding grace to the longer lined shirts and outerwear. The colors were mostly the darker hues of black and gray, contrasting at times with white, silver, pewter, charcoal and a glittery metallic hue. I previously noticed how he paired jodhpuris with blazers and quite admired the trend, which made a comeback this time around.
Of suits, I quite liked the pewter wool jacquard suit, one with midnight wool twill and inverted pocket details, and particularly the black one with double pockets with a longer line kurta style shirt with a safety pin shaped collar pin. The latter was a look that defined Eastern and Western fusion impeccably well, and was presented in various fabrics for the suit with a charming array of duffle bags and purses for men.
The more causal clothing consisted of standouts like a plaid matching shirt and palazzo pant pairing, ombre pullovers with slim pants, long line shirts with details on the collar or one midnight blue silk and cashmere blend kurta with palazzo pants that looked like it had waltzed right out of the Delhi Fashion Week runways. Some street style compositions mixed tees with metallic undershirts, pairing them with leggings or slimmer fit pants. The looks worked, and provided contrast and variety while staying true to the simple and sartorial nature of the brand.
My favorites were the letter embroidered slogans, often on smocks with track pants, or inscribed on a hoodie with a swirl shearling bomber. Like another collection, they spoke of a poignant philosophy to follow: “Life is My Message” or “Everything Has Beauty, Not Everyone Sees It.”
All the looks were paired with Vint & York eyewear, an enviable collection of B.May luggage and ombre styled Dr. Martens shoes. These added a travel element to the men as they waltzed the runway, as if gallantly walking towards their next sophisticated destination. After an inspiring conversation with a man himself, I was convinced that travels and international understanding truly created the most poetic and luscious of collections.
And the best runways are those where poetry is in motion, isn’t it?