Sequins never go out of style, and neither does a tendency to stick to your own roots. While I preferred the notion of the former, I liked the attitude of the latter, too. Doing exactly what one pleases transcends beyond the designers of Paris Fashion Week Mens (PFWM).
Afterparty outtakes much?
In the seasons of stars and stripes, Olivier Rousteing tied his signature sequins to the 80s style stripes as a tribute to America and a favorite singing icon of all time, Michael Jackson. With a hint of preppy but a lot of psychedelic, sparkling and distressed styles, there were a plethora of denim collections and knitwear in hues of red, white, blue, black, and their equivalent shiny amplifications, much like last season. There were many, many sequins, on longline shirts, military jackets, on long hoodies, hockey style shirts and oversized striped sweaters. Many jeans were heavily distressed, making this a trend that was in no mood for languishing, sexed up with Jackson’s cropped leather jackets, with a headway into varsity jackets and borderline sportswear. Silver foil created a look that mandated sunglasses, dissolved into wearable funk with asymmetric embelishments, excessive zippers, and tops printed with artwork from sailor styles, biker boys, Jackson’s music and sporty signage. Bling was clearly never going to go out of style, and something I was personally indebted and thankful to.
By contrast, sartorial was still key for Paul Smith who did not opt to work with streetwear for his British brand. As such, there were loose fit suits and sharp tailoring with pastel suits and jackets, some often double breasted like the 80s, with wool and silk pants in contrasting hues. Checkered suits were apparent too, with excessively oversized fits in proportion to the increase in windowpane check size. The sportswear consisted of silky suit tops, a beautiful rose wine colored patterned varsity jacket, and prints of vintage artwork on sashaying fabrics on men and women. With a cameo of harem style roomy suit pants, the transition to womenswear was gender fluid, with printed dresses and maxis aplenty. Bright, colorful and sometimes clashing in pattern and print, it was a nod to a designer that stuck to his style and sensibility, even amidst conformist times.
Image credits WWD.
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