The first thing that struck me about Brett Johnson‘s runway show at New York Fashion Week Mens (NYFWM) was the use of shapes and sizes in the series of structured outerwear. While the color scheme was reminiscent of several brown and earthen based collections of the season, a stretch from his own desert themed show last year, it was the mixing of textures, shapes and fabrics that made this one unique.
Of the more formal looks, a chocolate brown wool suit was eye candy, followed successively by a casual pairing of blazers with loose fit pants and joggers in navy jersey, a mustard wool/cotton blend and a curious brown hue paired with a paler v-neck sweater and a basic blue shirt. With a penchant for red tones, I quite liked the dark maroon blazer with a wine red shirt.
Of sweaters, the series started with an almost American Eagle looking chunky knit paired with wool trousers, but moved on to more inventive and fairly masculine trigonometric striped ones in a modern casual and oversized fit, with the front tucked into neatly cut loose print pants of matching tones. The future was clearly one that belonged to the laid back guy.
There were several quilted vests with leather panels in shape defining v’s at the back of one chocolate colored one, or with block patched frontal V quilting, which added definition and style to a man’s physique while seeming functional for the mild winters.
The expansive outerwear was on of the most impressive, starting with classic toggled and buttoned winter coats with multiple utility pockets in grey and a checkered tartan tone reminiscent of yesteryears. One chunky sheepskin jacket had a leather checkered pattern on its back, a unique and detailed piece. A more waterproof rendition was in warmer reds and mustards with contrasting pockets to highlight the military inspired design.
The cuter sports coats in varsity inspired cuts provided two front panel buttons for dressing up or down. The more casual look featured a matching cap, while the one I preferred was in the sauciest of reds.
Overall, using a variety of textures, fabrics and sticking to a warm and earthen theme, the collection was for the laid back yet sharply dressed guy who liked his utility as much as his shapes.